The three repairs that keep nets fishing
Most net damage falls into three categories: torn mesh, broken floats or weights, and frayed or broken line. You can fix all three yourself with basic tools and materials you likely have on hand or can find at a hardware store. The key is catching damage early — a small tear spreads fast in the water, and a loose float can throw off your whole net's balance.
The repair method depends on what broke and how badly. A small hole in mesh can be patched or darned. A large tear may need a section of netting spliced in. Floats and weights are usually just replacements. Line repairs are mostly about tying the right knot or re-whipping the end so it doesn't fray further.
Start by laying the net flat on a clean surface and inspecting it in good light. Wet nets are harder to work with, so let yours dry first if you can. Mark any damage with a piece of tape or chalk so you don't lose it while you're working.
Key Takeaways
- Small tears in mesh can be darned with needle and twine by weaving new line through the damaged area in a figure-eight pattern.
- Large holes need a patch of netting cut to size, overlapped onto the tear, and sewn down on all four sides with a whip stitch.
- Broken floats and weights are usually replaced by cutting the old one free and tying a new one to the float line with a secure knot.
- Frayed line ends are sealed by wrapping them tightly with thread or tape, or by melting the end of synthetic line with a lighter held at a distance.
- A net needle and shuttle make the work faster and neater than a regular sewing needle, and they cost very little.
Darning small holes in mesh
A darn works best on holes smaller than your thumbnail. You will need a net needle (also called a shuttle), heavy twine or fishing line that matches your net's material, and scissors. A net needle holds a length of line and lets you weave through mesh without tangling.
Thread the needle with about an arm's length of line. Start at one corner of the tear and weave the needle through the mesh in a figure-eight pattern, going over and under the strands that border the hole. Work back and forth across the tear, pulling the line snug but not so tight that you pucker the mesh. When you reach the far side, weave back across in the opposite direction to fill the gap. Tie off the end with a square knot on the underside of the net.
The darn will be slightly thicker than the surrounding mesh, but it holds well and is nearly invisible once the net is wet. If the hole is ragged or the edges are torn, trim any loose strands with scissors before you start darning.
Patching large tears with a mesh section
A tear larger than your thumbnail needs a patch. Cut a rectangle of netting about two inches larger than the hole on all sides. The patch should match your net's mesh size and material as closely as you can find.
Lay the patch over the tear so it overlaps evenly on all sides. Using a net needle and heavy twine, sew the patch down with a whip stitch — a stitch that wraps around the edge of the patch and catches the net beneath it. Work your way around all four sides, keeping your stitches about a quarter-inch apart and pulling them snug. Tie off at a corner with a square knot on the underside.
If you do not have matching netting, you can use a piece of canvas or heavy fabric as a temporary patch. It will not last as long as mesh, but it will keep the net fishing until you can replace that section properly. Sew it on the same way, using a needle and heavy thread.
Replacing broken floats and weights
Floats and weights are held to the net line with a simple knot or a loop of line. To remove a broken one, cut the knot or loop with scissors and slide the old float or weight off the line. If the line itself is damaged where the float was attached, trim back to clean line with scissors.
Tie the new float or weight on with a clinch knot or a loop knot, depending on how the original was attached. A clinch knot is faster: thread the line through the eye or hole in the float, wrap the line around itself five or six times, thread the end back through the first loop, then pull tight. A loop knot (also called a surgeon's loop) is more secure for heavier weights — tie a loop in the line, thread it through the float's eye, and pull the float through the loop.
Space floats and weights evenly along the line so the net hangs and sinks at the right angle. If one float is missing, the net will tilt. If one weight is missing, the net will not sink properly.
Fixing frayed and broken line
Line frays when the outer strands separate from the core. If the fraying is at the very end of a line, the simplest fix is to wrap the end tightly with thread or electrical tape for about half an inch. This holds the strands together and prevents further fraying.
If the line is synthetic (nylon or polypropylene), you can also melt the end to seal it. Hold a lighter or match about an inch away from the end of the line and let the heat melt the fibers together. Do not touch the line to the flame directly or it will burn. Work quickly — you only need a second or two. Let it cool before you handle it.
If the line is broken in the middle rather than at the end, you have two options. You can cut out the damaged section and tie the two ends together with a square knot or a surgeon's knot, which is stronger. Or you can splice the line by unraveling the strands on each end, overlapping them, and weaving them back together. Splicing takes more time but creates a smoother joint that is less likely to catch on something.
Tools and materials to keep on hand
You do not need much to repair nets. A net needle (a flat shuttle that holds line) costs a few dollars and makes the work much faster than a regular sewing needle. Heavy twine or fishing line in the same material as your net is essential — nylon for nylon nets, natural fiber for natural fiber nets. Scissors that cut line cleanly are worth having; kitchen scissors work in a pinch but dull quickly on synthetic line.
For floats and weights, keep a few spares on hand in the sizes you use most. A lighter or matches are useful for sealing synthetic line. Electrical tape or thread for wrapping frayed ends is cheap and lasts a long time. A small piece of canvas or heavy fabric can serve as a temporary patch if you do not have matching netting.
Store your repair kit in a dry place where you can find it quickly. A small plastic box or bag works well. If you fish regularly, you will use these tools often enough to justify keeping them close.
When to replace instead of repair
Some damage is not worth repairing. If more than a quarter of the net is torn, or if the line is rotted or brittle, a repair will not hold long enough to justify the time. If the net has multiple breaks in the same area, the mesh around them is probably weakened and will tear again soon.
A net that has been in storage for years and smells of mildew or rot should be replaced rather than repaired. The material has degraded and will not hold up to fishing. Similarly, if the floats or weights are corroded or crumbling, replacing the whole float line is faster than replacing them one by one.
Repair is most worthwhile on nets that are otherwise sound — a single tear, a broken float, a frayed edge. These repairs take an hour or less and will keep the net fishing for years. A net that is falling apart in multiple places is telling you it is time for a new one.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of twine should I use to repair my net?
Use the same material as your net if you can — nylon twine for nylon nets, natural fiber twine for cotton or linen nets. If you cannot match it exactly, nylon works on most nets because it is strong and does not rot. Avoid using thread meant for sewing clothes; it is too thin and will break under the strain of fishing.
Can I repair a net while it is wet?
You can, but it is harder. Wet mesh is slippery and the line is harder to see. Let the net dry first if you have time. If you must repair it wet, work slowly and keep a towel nearby to dry your hands and the area you are working on.
How do I know if a float or weight is broken?
A broken float will not hold the net up — it will sink or drag. A broken weight will not sink — the net will float or drift. Inspect floats for cracks, dents, or soft spots. Inspect weights for rust, corrosion, or pieces missing. If a float or weight is damaged, replace it rather than trying to repair it.
What is the difference between a clinch knot and a loop knot?
A clinch knot is faster to tie and works well for light floats. A loop knot is stronger and better for heavy weights. If you are not sure which to use, a loop knot is the safer choice — it will not slip even if the knot loosens slightly over time.
Should I seal the end of every line on my net?
Yes, if the line is synthetic. Sealing the end prevents fraying and keeps the line from unraveling if it gets caught on something. Natural fiber line does not need sealing, but wrapping the end with thread will still extend its life by preventing the strands from separating.